The Serious Surfer

As I glide through the wild, wet, wave the sparkling, spray splashes behind my yellow, slick surf board. I taste the salty, brackish flavoured sea and smell the crisp, chilly air. Feeling extremely motivated anxious and determined I challenge myself as I go through the barrelling lip of the azure wave which looks like a scroll wrapping itself around me like a warm cozy blanket. I see the aquamarine sky above me. I can hear the crashing roaring wave that’s loud like a lions roar. I wonder if I can take on this deafening titanic wave.